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Transfers, Stamps and Moulds!
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& have fun!
TRANSFERS, STAMPS & MOULDS!!!
Botanist's Journal 24"x33"
Transfers are visually stunning & easy to work with. Bring your project to life with an amazing transfer!
Find more in the store!
Lady of Shalott 12"x12"
Just imagine the possibilities!
So Many to choose from!
Acanthus Scroll 6"x10"
Moulds are a great way to add embellishments. Add dimension to your piece of furniture, picture frame or anything your heart desires!
Bring your vintage pieces back to life again!!!
It's easier than it looks & you can have so much fun creating & redecorating!!!
Vintage Picture Frame with Transfer
Dresser with Transfer
"WOW" Creative use of transfers
Washer & Dryer with Transfer
Dish Towel Stamped
Old Cupboard Doors with Transfers
Dresser with Transfers
How cute are they?
Old Window with Transfer
Trays with Transfer
Dresser with Transfer
Old Picture Frame with Transfer
Flower Box with Transfer
Dresser with Transfer
Pots with Moulds Added
Dresser with Transfer
Lovely Transfer Signs
Bin with Transfer
Dresser Decorated with Transfer
Bird House Stamps & Moulds
Stunning Window Transfer
Cherub Mould on
Fronds & Butterflies Stamp
used to decorate candles
Fluer de Lis Mould on
Pavo & Lady of Shalott
Beautiful stamped & some use
Lovely Mixture of Stamps
to create this work of art
Farm Animals Stamp
on a Hutch
Stamped jars with the
Transfer & Moulds
Lock & Key
He Loves Me
Picture Frame with
Mermaid Tail Necklace
Cubano Tile Stamp
Door Knob Stamps
Lady of Shalott
Door Stamped with
Jewelry Created from
Jewelry Created from
with a Mould
Chest with Transfer
Pillow Stamped with
Rose de Toil
Frame decorated with Moulds and a Transfer
Pumpkin Decorated with
Heirloom Roses & Cherub Mould
Moulds & Paint
Jars with the Crockery Stamp
Bench with Transfer
Be Thou My Vision
He Loves Me Mould
with Crockery Stamp
Dresser with the Pavo Stamp
Mirror Decorated with Moulds
Blocks for Children
Floor Plank Stamp
Cupboard Door with Transfer
Violin decorated with
stamps & Moulds
You can get so creative and design your own napkins
The Backplate Mould
Moulds to decorate a Pot
Moulds used on a Pie
Stamped with Wreath & Builder Classic, by Roberta from Eastern Shore Chic
Various Molds, by Kim Burns
Kim Burns, Christmas Jars
Mirror done with molds by Debbie Sodeman-Roelle
IOD Décor Transfers are a little delicate, need a little extra care, but are so worth it! With a little instruction, they are easy to use and add instant style to your projects.
PREPARATION IS KEY
Keep your transfer with its backing sheet until you are ready to apply. Keep free of dust or debris, which will interfere with adhesion. Do not allow the adhesive side of transfer to touch anything prior to application. When handling the transfer, avoid letting the adhesive side touch itself (don’t do in a windy environment). Do not store transfer in extreme temperatures or humid conditions, which can affect adhesion.
Start with a clean, dry, matte surface. If painted, make sure it’s well cured, and if you have sanded the paint make certain there is no residual dust. All of these things will interfere with adhesion. Carefully remove the transfer from its white backing. Slowly and carefully lower the transfer onto your intended surface, making sure that it does not touch until the placement is correct. Use small pieces of low tack tape to hold it in place. Using the provided tool, or one of your choice, start at one end of the transfer and rub firmly to adhere the image to the surface. Do this until the entire image is transferred. You are welcome for the free arm workout as well lol! If any parts aren’t transferred when you lift, simply lay it back down and rub more on that portion. After it is transferred, with a clean dry hand, smooth down any bits that aren’t flatly adhered. We recommend sealing with a water based (or not harsh solvent based) sealer (waxes created for chalk type paints also work well if they don’t contain harsh solvents).
IOD Paintable Décor Transfers are similar to original IOD Décor Transfers, but in a material and design that is ideally suited for coloring in. They are so much fun! And, their versatility makes it possible for you to make your project completely unique. Want to go with neutrals? Want to explode with color? Have it your way!
As always, apply your Paintable Décor Transfer to a clean, matte, dry base. Many people use chalk and mineral type paints on these projects, and they work great. Optionally, when using chalk or mineral type paint, we like to enhance the bonding between transfer and paint with a light coat of universal sealer or something that functions similarly, and allow it to dry thoroughly before transfer application (always take appropriate safety precautions and follow manufacturer’s instructions). Protect your Transfer from dust or debris by keeping it with it’s protective backing sheet until applied. Dust will interfere with adhesion. Since we use a special non stick backing to avoid transfer damage from excessive cling, you will need to take care that you keep them together until you apply it. Apply your Paintable Décor Transfer to your surface by rubbing with the included tool until it is completely transferred. When you lift the clear sheet to check, if there are any bits left on the sheet, just gently lay it back down and rub those spots to transfer them. Once your image is completely transferred, make sure it is all securely down and burnish with a clean dry cloth so all edges are snuggly adhered.
Next you can go one of two ways:
Route 1) Seal with a flat sealer. Whichever sealer you use, you want it to work with your medium without causing excessive beading. Beading means that it won’t sit still, and it wants to move into little balls. Water based mediums like watercolors, will bead on slick surfaces. Some sealers will cause beading with these mediums, and some won’t. If you choose a sealer that does cause a little beading action with your medium, one option is to counteract that by buffing the dried sealer lightly but thoroughly with a fine sanding sponge (I like 220 grit), to give it some tooth. Alternately, you can use a ground that is specifically designed to mimic a porous surface, like a clear “watercolor ground”, or a clear gesso. I personally like to use the General Finishes flat out flat sealer and most of the time I don’t need to scuff it. The two upsides that I personally like when sealing my transfer prior to tinting are A) I have more open time with the medium so I can more easily blend it or even remove it if needed. it’s more forgiving than a more porous surface and B) It makes the paint and the transfer the same sheen, so they both respond to the mediums the same way.
Route 2) Leave unsealed and color in. You don’t have to seal prior to tinting if you don’t want to, and whether you choose to will largely be affected by what medium(s) you are tinting with. For example, if you want to use watered down chalk paint or a really watery medium, it’s easier to control without beading on the surface that has not been sealed (unless you use one of the aforementioned sealers like a watercolor ground which is intended to make a porous surface for watery mediums). Another upside- It’s also one less step. Downside: If you are using mediums that are grabbing quickly, you have less open time and it’s less forgiving. In fact, many mediums move like magic on a sealed surface described in Route 1. Tinting your paintable. There are so many different mediums that you can use with the IOD Paintable Décor Transfers. Some of the qualities that I look for when using them for large pieces like furniture are: Lightfastness. Lightfastness is a property of a colourant such as dye or pigment that describes how resistant to fading it is when exposed to light. Dyes and pigments are used for example for dyeing of fabrics, plastics or other materials and manufacturing paints or printing inks. Permanency- This is somewhat flexible because as long as a medium is lightfast, then the permanency can be enhanced by the sealer that goes over it, even if the medium itself is not considered permanent.
Translucency - For the purpose of tinting our IOD Décor Paintables, we tend to favor a medium that is translucent and therefore will allow the lines to show through even if they are painted over. That said, chalk paint is very opaque, and can be made transparent by diluting with water. This method works fabulously, so keep that in mind when considering opacity and translucency.
Big Brush Pitt Pens by Faber Castell - They are different than most artists pens available, because they are made with India Ink, and therefore have a high lightfast rating. They are also marketed as “permanent”, though that may be affected by the surface they are used on, and I believe they have more movability even after initially dry, on a sealed surface. They come in about 50ish colors and are very vibrant. I actually find that I need to tone them down a little bit after I’m done coloring my project, but I can live with that because it’s easier to tone down than to amp up color saturation and intensity. You can use these with a barely damp water brush and they move like silk over a sealed transfer.
Diluted chalk paint - This works fabulously and you can get very watercolor like effects. It takes a minute to get your dilution right, and that will vary by brand. Play. I’ve used both on sealed and unsealed with excellent results. Sometimes you want muted earthy tones, and this is probably the way to go for that.
Dr. PH Martin Bombay India ink - These have an excellent lightfastness rating. They have intense and saturated color. They aren’t as convenient as the Faber Castell big brush pens, BUT, you can premix colors in whatever shade you like, and if you love using a real artists paint brush, you may want to dive into these. They are lovely. Test for beading on whatever surface you use them on.
Dr. Ph Martin’s Hydrus liquid watercolors - These are lightfast and pigment rich liquid watercolors. Not all liquid watercolors have a high lightfast rating, so you should check before using if you need good lightfastness.
Water soluble crayons such as Tim Holtz distress crayons - These silky creamy crayons go on like buttah and are more pigment rich than other water soluble crayons I have tried. However, they do not have a high lightfast rating. They are great for smaller projects. You can also enhance the lightfastness rating by using an appropriate UV sealer, but I don’t know how much that increases it.
Alcohol inks and copic markers - These are such great mediums for projects where lightfastness is not required. I would not recommend them for using on furniture.
Acrylic inks - Some of them are reported to have great lightfastness, so I want to get to the bottom of that business. This is by no means a comprehensive list, it’s just a few of the top options we’ve loved so far. When you find new ones that you love, be sure to share with us! After you have tinted your IOD Paintable Décor Transfer, you will want to seal it. If your medium remains reactive when dry (that means that adding liquid will cause it to smear), then you will need to avoid brushing on a sealer which could smear it. In this case, you will want to use a sprayable option. Even if you do a light misting to set it, and then brush on your favorite sealer.
There are so many creative possibilities with Paintable Décor Transfers, allow yourself to have fun and enjoy the process.
For anyone who hasn't used the IOD Decor Stamps, they are essentially what they sound like. A stamp. Similar to a stamp that you might've used as a child but magical! The IOD Decor Stamps have the power to transform an item that you found on the side of the road to an item that you will have to convince your partner you didn't spend the entire monthly budget on. Yeah, that good! But wait - there's more! The IOD Decor Stamps aren't just for furniture and home decor, you can use them to transform your food art as well! The stamps are made from a food safe material (DO NOT USE THE SAME SETS FOR FOOD AND PAINT) They are not for high heat applications. DO NOT put in dishwasher, they will melt at extreme heats.
PREPARATION IS KEY
Before removing from backing, condition your stamps with fine sand paper, scuff the surface in 2 directions. This helps the mediums stay put, and not bead (which some types, like ceramic glazes tend to do). Remove stamps from backing when ready to use. This takes some force, but don't worry the stamps are strong.
DIFFERENT MOUNTS FOR DIFFERENT SURFACES
Large Mounting Block - This is recommended for surfaces that are perfectly flat, for example, if you are doing fabric on a perfectly flat work surface.
Freestyle Stamping - This is what we call it when you use a flexible piece of plastic, such as the clear sheet that came with the stamps, as a mounting device. Simply position the stamp on the sheet and proceed. This is great for irregular surfaces such as walls or furniture (surprisingly, many furniture surfaces that appear flat have dips - this method will conform nicely).
No Mount - This is when you would use the stamp without mounting to anything, because you want it to really conform to a curved surface, or even stretch. For example, I stamped the front of my cowboy boots, and was able to stretch the stamp and conform it cleanly to the surface even though the boot is very curved. When using the bare stamp make sure that your fingers don’t stick to it, this could cause the stamp to lift from the surface and create a smudge. Nobody likes an unintentional smudge.
Whichever mounting method you use, the stamp backs must be perfectly clean, as well as the mount, in order for the stamp to cling firmly to the mount.
Paint - Paint works wonderfully with the Décor Stamps. When using paint we recommend creating a small puddle to roll your brayer in. Make sure you get an even load and roll onto the design side of the mounted (or if using unmounted, proceed accordingly) stamp. This part takes a little practice to get the feel of the load so that it’s enough to give you the impression you want without being sloppy. Also keep in mind variables such as the surface you are stamping, the medium you are using, as well as the look you are trying to achieve. Practice makes perfect!
Ink - Our Décor ink, and most other inks, work fabulously with the Décor Stamps as well. Ink gives finer detail and tends to be a little more translucent than paint, keep this in mind in consideration to your project. We find that we like using paint and ink equally, and they lend themselves well to different projects and surfaces. We recommend using the blank stamp pads to apply the ink (one for each color), then pat the surface of the stamp with it.
SURFACES AND APPLICATIONS
Fabric - When stamping fabric the load of medium should be generous in order to penetrate the fibers, and the look will be different with different levels of fabric texture. Décor ink, Chalk paint and other fabric suitable mediums work well. It is our opinion that the ideal fabric for permanent washables is 100 percent cotton. However, blends and some other natural fibers can sometimes work as well. Do a small test to be sure. Allow your newly stamped fabric to dry/cure for a minimum of 24 hours, then heat set with an iron on high heat before washing.
Furniture - Both painted and stained furniture can be stamped. In fact, this is one of the most common uses of our Décor Stamps. You can use ink or paint, but I tend to use paint more for furniture.
Walls - Walls are a fabulous surface opportunity for Décor Stamps. Create all over patterns that are a level up from wallpaper, and completely custom, or use the décor stamps to create an old world border. We love using paint for wall applications!
CARING FOR YOUR STAMPS
We find that the easiest way to care for and clean stamps is to keep wet wipes nearby, and avoid letting the medium dry all the way on the stamp surface. Then, when you have time, wash them with mild soap and warm water. For some mediums you may find that you need a stamp cleaner. Use one that is safe for clear stamps. After thoroughly cleaned, place them back on the clear backing for storage.
The IOD Décor Moulds are made from food safe materials (DO NOT USE THE SAME SET FOR FOOD AND CRAFTS), and can be used to transform and create baked goods, furniture, soaps, jewelry, and just about anything you can think up in that creative brain of yours.
IOD Décor Moulds can be used with many different mediums. We will cover the two most common here. Every medium has its own characteristics, challenges, and virtues.
Air dry clay, or paper clay - IOD paper clay is an air dry medium, and one of our favorites. Like most paper pulp based air dry clays, some shrinking, warping, and cracking is inherent. We like these qualities for a distressed, authentically vintage look. Our favorite way to apply moulded pieces is to remove them from the mould while still moist, and adhere to the surface with the appropriate glue so it conforms well. For vertical surfaces, use a piece of low tack tape to hold it in place so it doesn’t slide.
Casting resins - There are some great pourable resins available. These have completely different qualities than the paper clay. There is no shrinking or warping, and the castings are more consistent. Depending on the project, these qualities can be helpful. If you need to conform them to a curved surface, this can be done if removed from the mould before it’s completely hardened.
On releases - We find that most of the time a release is not necessary and the casting will come out without the use of a release, however, if you are having trouble with the material sticking (more common with clays than resins), a light dusting of simple cornstarch.
MondayAppointments only01:00pm - 04:00pm
Tuesday - ThursdayAppointments only1:00 pm - 04:00pm
Saturday11:00am - 03:00pm